Rock climbing training - Fingerboarding or Hangboarding

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    Rock climbing training - Fingerboarding or Hangboarding

    During quarantine Darebee has been a great blessing. It's helped me both mentally and physically to have an outlet. In the past I've periodically used the individual workouts when I couldn't get to the gym or to a cliff to climb. Now that I'm indoors I decided to try the GRAVITY which was great and I'm half way through 30 Days of Strength. My nephew is on his second program now too.

    To stay in shape for rock climbing I also do some fingerboard (or hangboard) workouts as a supplement to the programs in Darebee. I know there must be other homebound climbers who don't have any training equipment besides fingerboards as well. A Darebee program or two that strategically incorporates fingerboarding would be nice so that it fits into the theme of the day for a given program better. If no one on the Darebee staff has a strong climbing background I might be able to give some insight for what it could look like. I find the way Darebee presents things easy to use and inspiring so would love for it to be applied to training for my favorite sport.

    Also, I clicked on the Feedback in the top bar to post this. Hope this is the right place.

    Thanks for providing such a wonderful website and resource.

    #2
    I am climbing/bouldering, too.
    In my opinion finger/handboarding is to spezialized to be in a darebee program... but you can easily add a session to upperbody days or other days. There are a some grip challenges on darebee. If someone has enough experience to be ready to use a hangboard properly without the risk of injury, information about how to do it can be found all around the net.

    What setup are you using?

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      #3
      I have a Tension Grindstone (first version). I've followed different protocols. I've followed different hang board programs in the past such as basic repeater protocols. Currently I'm incorporating some of Tyler Nelson's tips mentioned in a recent interview with Outside Magazine: https://www.outsideonline.com/241133...-rock-climbing

      What hangboard protocols are you currently using?

      I understand that it's specialized and that studies have been done about grip strength correlation from one type of an activity to another type does not 100% carry over.
      That said I think fight style type programs such as the Boxing program are also specialized training. I realize that it might not currently be feasible for Darebee but hoping to plant a seed.

      Have you climbed in Frankejura? Never been but heard it's amazing.

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        #4
        I don't do hangboard training too regularly, cause I am fighting with a golfers elbow for quite some time, but if you look at my checkin-log and search for [finger strength] you will find some exercises/routines I did. Favourite is (7s on - 3s off) cycles on the easiest edges of the [beastmaker 2000] which are I guess about 20mm...

        I have been to the Frankenjura a few times not too much, it's a great place to climb.

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          #5
          Sorry to hear that.

          I've had the same issue off and on for years and have tried various things with mixed success. I've somewhat resigned myself to finding a solution that works and using it until it stops working and then trying something else.
          I did rice bucket hand workouts and used a thera band bar for a while which I think helped but after those things stopped helping I gave them up. Hope you're able to find something that works for you.

          I think the Crimpd phone app by Lattice Training has a timer protocol for the 7 on 3 off repeater cycle. I've used their app a little bit with my own hangboard. Most of their stuff is meant for a 20mm edge.

          Thanks for the response!

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            #6
            Originally posted by BlueBarbarian View Post
            Sorry to hear that.

            I've had the same issue off and on for years and have tried various things with mixed success. I've somewhat resigned myself to finding a solution that works and using it until it stops working and then trying something else.
            I did rice bucket hand workouts and used a thera band bar for a while which I think helped but after those things stopped helping I gave them up. Hope you're able to find something that works for you.

            I think the Crimpd phone app by Lattice Training has a timer protocol for the 7 on 3 off repeater cycle. I've used their app a little bit with my own hangboard. Most of their stuff is meant for a 20mm edge.

            Thanks for the response!
            I can only guess, but for my it got better, when I did more flat hand strength work like handbalancing, pushup, things like that. I think wrist mobility is aba factors, too. I am still goingsgoing slow with finger strength and pullups, cause I am a bit anxious of over doing it (again)... although, practically I have no problems.

            I have the Crimpd app, but I haven't used it yet...

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              #7
              On-hiatus climber here... the closest thing I've found besides pull-up progressions for forearms and grip strength is the Power Grip challenge. Honestly I think one of the best parts of Darebee is that specialized equipment isn't necessary... and I've never met a hangboard owner that wasn't a climber kind of agree with HellYeah that it's a bit too specialized for this site, but climb on!

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